My Enchanted Road Trip Through Storybook Southern Bavaria Germany

Never will I forget my first road trip of Bavaria Germany. I was so impressed with the romantic palaces, magical castles, enchanting towns and astounding history that I ended up going many times after my first visit.

I didn’t even know places like this existed outside of Hollywood until I moved to Germany and began exploring this beautiful country filled with magical castles, towns and ancient roads.  The feeling of living in a storybook was especially strong with each and every memorable visit to the enchanting Southern Bavarian region of Germany.

Lying in the southeast corner of Germany and bordered by Austria and the Czech Republic, Bavaria serves as Germany’s most popular tourist destination and it is easy to understand why.  Romantic castles and imperial palaces dot a landscape of rolling hills.  Charming towns and breathtaking lakes can be found nestled in cozy valleys while jutting alps serve as a backdrop.

There is an incredible amount of beauty and wonder to absorb with every turn of the head.  I honestly don’t see how anyone can be in a bad mood with such scenic artistry surrounding you.

Munich (Home Of The Monks) is a great location to fly into and begin your road trip of Bavaria Germany.  There are many tour options (see TripAdvisor on down the page for tour options link) however, we enjoyed the freedom of renting a car and going ourselves.

After renting a car, (you’re in Germany so rent something awesome) take  Autobahn 8 out of Munich and head towards the town of Berchtesgaden.

Munich, origins dating back to 750 CE, reigns as Bavaria’s capital and is certainly worth exploring.  I usually save this vibrant town to enjoy at the end of the trip because it just seems as if it provides the perfect completion to the journey.

BERCHTESGADEN

Dating back to the 1100’s, Berchtesgaden is located with visual perfection in the Bavarian Alps directly on the Austrian border. We would typically stay in Berchtesgaden for several days because there are tons of amazing things to see in this picturesque Bavarian town that sits high on my list of favorite destinations.

First and foremost, buy German nutcrackers and smokers here.  They are everywhere and most are German made with price tags that are totally affordable.  You will be glad that you did especially when you get back to the states and see the outlandish markups on these items in stores.

Shopping in this little Bavarian town is delightful.  You will enjoy window shopping and browsing beautiful Bavarian clothes and linens along with some of the most incredible woodcarving works you will ever see.

One of my favorite places to visit in Berchtesgaden is the historic site of Eagle’s Nest which is what this town is famous for besides its dazzling beauty.  Used by Hitler and the Nazi party during WWII, Eagle’s Nest sits high atop Kehlstein Mountain and has a commanding view of the surrounding Alps.

Prepare yourself for the ride to Eagle’s Nest. My heart was in my throat the entire time and I found it very helpful to close my eyes, hold my breath and wait it out.

You will get a on a bus and begin a climb to the summit on a seriously narrow winding tiny road that will take you to a cool James Bond gold elevator (would have been perfect if playing “Goldfinger” sound track) where you will ascend rather dauntingly through cutout stone to the summit.  Once at the top, you will have panoramic views of Germany and Austria and you will begin your tour of Adolf Hitler’s 50th birthday present.

Be sure to observe the elaborate red marble fireplace that was a gift to Hitler from Mussolini.  Look closely and you will see sections missing which we were told by our guide was the result of troops chipping away the marble to take home as souvenirs.

Stretching before you is the most breathtaking sight of surrounding mountains and valleys that will make you smile with joy and, if your stomach wasn’t left somewhere back on the serpentine road, a true mouthwatering Bavarian restaurant makes for a satisfying lunch. Eagle’s Nest began it’s journey rather negatively however today, as you tour the building and walk the grounds, there is peace and tranquility here for all to enjoy.

Also in this region resides one of the most beautiful lakes I have ever seen in my life.  Located in a southeast corner of Berchtesgaden and formed by glaciers during the ice age is the most breathtaking natural lake of Konigssee (King’s Lake).  Lake Konigssee has been enjoyed over the centuries by rulers and royalty as well as Hitler, who boated on the lake, and Eva Braun, who liked to sunbathe next to the shores.

Just inside the spectacular Berchtesgaden National Park, Konigssee is noted for its clean perfectly clear water surrounded by fjord type alps that echo musically with sounds.  I highly recommend the 30 minute electric boat ride that takes you across the emerald green waters to the St. Bartholoma peninsula where you will disembark to explore the church founded in 1134 and to walk the waters edges.

If you forget lunch, no worries.  The Hunting Lodge is a lovely restaurant that provides mouthwatering German dishes.

Getting to Konigssee can be accomplished easily as buses run regularly from both Berchtesgaden and Salzburg to the Konigssee parking lot where you can begin the Konigssee Lake Ferry Boat Tour.  As you glide across water so clear it’s as if you are floating on air while taking in the stunning views unfolding around you, your guide typically tells the romantic tragic tale of young lovers who now haunt the alps around the lake.

It would be a shame to be so close to Salzburg and not take a quick trip to visit such an iconic city.  Take B305 and B150 and in 30 minutes you are in one of Austria’s magnificent gems.

Salzburg (Salt Fortress), founded in 696, enchanted me completely with its captivating scenery, stunning architectural beauty and dazzling vibe of fun inner-town life.  Street entertainers were brilliant, filling the town with beautiful music that blend with the church bells…it is easy, to say the least, to fall in love with such perfection.

There are many sites to see in Salzburg but the most important sites to visit in my experience are the Old Town with its cobblestone streets, cozy alleyways and magnificent architecture; Hohensalzburg Fortress which is the largest and best preserved castle in Central Europe; Salzburg Cathedral; Mozart’s Birthplace and, one of the sites I enjoyed, the St. Peter’s Cemetery and Catacombs which date back to the 1600’s.

GARMISCH

Continuing on our road trip of Bavaria Germany, we would head west for roughly 2.5 hours along B472 and A8 towards Germany’s popular ski resort Garmisch-Partenkirchen.  Entertaining such area icons like the Zugspitze, Ettal, Oberammergau and King Ludwig’s II fairytale castles, this region nestled in the Bavarian Alps is super special and worthy of a several day stay.

Garmisch and Partenkirchen joined together in 1935 and provide a unique experience with Garmisch being on the more fashionable side and Partenkirchen being more Old World with that charming Bavarian environment.  Both are excellent for exploring and shopping and are perfect for setting your bags down allowing you to begin a series of day trips to some of the most enchanting and memorable locations I think I have ever experienced.

ETTAL

Once settled, the first day we would head out along B2 and B23 for a less then 30 minute lovely drive to visit the Ettal Monestary and purchase some of the best beer in the world.  Brewed by the monks of Ettal through traditional practices and using the waters from the Ammergau Alps, you will be enjoying beer just as it tasted in the early 1600’s.  Buy some of this ancient brew for friends and family and you will be very popular.

The Ettal Monestary was originally founded during the 1300’s but was devastated by fire and rebuilt by the famous Emperor Ludwig in the 1700’s to house his knights and monks and this specially brewed beer.  It is worth going into the basilica’s dome to see the magnificently painted frescoes and the 1700’s graffiti etched into the wood of the pews.

OBERAMMERGAU

A mere 6 minute drive ( if that) from Ettal on B23 is the uniquely painted town of Oberammergau, the site of the infamous Passion Play.  I loved this little town.  It is a joy to just stroll about and admire the woodcarvings and the magnificent paintings adorning the entire outside walls of the buildings.

The Passion Play began in 1634 as the Black Plague was sweeping a cruel and devastating assault throughout Europe.  The townspeople promised God that if spared, they would perform the Passion Of Christ every 10 years and so it would appear that an agreement was struck for the plague did not touch this town thus, the Passion Play is now a pledge carried out from generation to generation.

I wish I could say that I was able to attend the open air performance of the Passion Play but getting in is like winning the lottery in that tickets are limited.  We had a wait of 5 more years from that point which didn’t really matter anyway because the next play was already sold out with long waiting lists.

Oberammergau is definitely worth seeing even though you may not get to see the Passion Play.  With the woodcarvings and paintings covering the quaint buildings, you feel as if you are walking into a Brothers Grimm story.

NEUSCHWANSTEIN CASTLE

You are in the region of the Swan King, aka Ludwig II, King of Bavaria, a visit is not complete unless you are entertained with the brilliant enchantment of his fairytale castles.

A very handsome but strange man whose death is suspected homicide, King Ludwig (reign 1864-1886), unknowingly created one of Germany’s most celebrated tourist attractions and the inspiration for Disney’s Cinderella castle, Neuschwanstein Castle.

Taking B179 and heading west towards Schwangau from Garmisch for about an hour, Neuschwanstein is a 19th century architectural masterpiece sitting on a hill with the Bavarian Alps providing a spell binding backsplash that you do not want to miss.

The epic symbol of Romanticism. Neuschwanstein Castle is a showcase of King Ludwig for he took an active role in the design and decoration of this castle that is purposely without any fortifications.  Meant to be a private residence, a retreat after losing his sovereign power to Prussia, King Ludwig moved into the palace in 1884 only to die in 1886 never seeing the completion.

Fortunately for us, Neuschwanstein was opened to the public shortly after his death and has gone on to become one of the most visited homes in the world as well as making a brilliant appearance in Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.  By the time I toured this castle that looks as if there should be a knight in shining armor rescuing a damsel in distress, I had visited many castles throughout Europe and I found Neuschwanstein to have a delightfully warm feeling of a home.

I advise getting to Neuschwanstein early, roughly an hour before opening to avoid parking nightmares and major crowds.  I went during midday and had nearly a two hour wait in line.  Another great option that I failed to do was to purchase tickets online.

Tours and ticket purchases through TripAdvisor

Try to avoid weekend days and if you can’t get there when the castle opens, you can try late afternoon but sometimes that doesn’t work during peak tourist season. Low season is between November to April.

Tours of the interior typically last less then an hour and you can continue your own tour afterwards of the breathtakingly beautiful area around the castle.  The most photographed area is while standing on Mary’s Bridge with Neuschwanstein majestically rising behind you (yes I did this).  We thoroughly enjoyed hiking the trails across from the bridge that wind through dense but well maintained forest and provided many awesome photo ops.

You will see Hohenschwangau Castle in the distance, the childhood home of King Ludwig which is roughly 20 minutes walk from Neuschwanstein.  I did not tour this castle however, I would advise purchasing a tour of this castle as well along with Neuschwanstein.

LINDERHOF PALACE

Another epic palace of King Ludwig’s is Linderhof Palace located 50 minutes from Neuschwanstein via L255 heading back to Garmisch and just 11 minutes from the Ettal Monestary.  Smaller in size then Neuschwanstein but equally elegant and magical, Linderhof Palace was highly enjoyable to me in that it had a palatial coziness while still very grand.

Fashioned after Versailles whose creator, Louis XIV, was an idol for Ludwig II, Linderhof has its own “Hall of Mirrors” which was used as a drawing room where Ludwig enjoyed reading at night while the reflections of the candles in the mirrors made for a dazzling illusion. A dining table burdened by a huge meal was raised to his chambers for him to dine without the interference of servants.

The 125 acres of manicured grounds and gardens surrounding the palace are exorbitantly beautiful. This was actually the part of the visit I most enjoyed.

You are greeted by a huge pond with a golden fountain jetting water 25 feet into the air and surrounded by gardens hosting a mix of breathtaking European styles and designs. Illustrated after Wagner’s Tannhauser, Venus Grotto is a manmade cave decorated in gold with a waterfall and a golden swan boat that Ludwig enjoyed rowing over the lake. (The Venus Grotto is under construction until 2024 but all the gardens otherwise are open)

Garmisch to Munich is only a little over an hour drive (an hour and 10 minutes roughly) via A95 which allows you, at this point in time, to take part in a activity I highly recommend and that is leaving the main road to leisurely drive the stunningly beautiful backroads of Bavaria.  Bavaria has some of the most picturesque small towns, neighborhoods and farms nestled in valleys and cozy gorges.

Some of the most enjoyable moments of our vacation was to escape into the depths of this magical land and see the livestock, enjoy the the operating farms and meet the friendly people of Bavaria.

While touring the backroads, you might get lucky like we did and happen upon a festival or a celebration being held by a neighborhood or in one of the small towns.  On one of our side trips, we discovered a gorgeous wedding ceremony being held in it’s Bavarian finest with flowers, decorated horse drawn wagons and beautiful traditional Bavarian clothes.

MUNICH

Founded around the 1100’s, Munich is known for its popular Oktoberfest celebration, ancient buildings, museums and beer halls.  The most populated city in Bavaria and the third largest city in Germany and is one of the most expensive cities in Europe (40% more expensive than London).

TIP:  Steinheil16 is a delicious budget German restaurant close to the Oktoberfest location.  Schweizer Hof has excellent German food and drinks and Xaver’s  has affordable and yummy Bavarian plates.  Der Kleine Flo has amazing burgers with sweet potato fries.

Having said that, if you are able, I do advise exploring this fabulous city. Munich has great walkability with the hub of social activity being the Marienplatz. Also the English Garden is a spectacular scenic park to stroll.

Nymphenburg Palace, 1664, hosts glorious gardens and beautiful architecture and is not that bad on admission charges. A museum I recommend is Residenz Munich which is unique in that it housed in an ancient royal residence.

These are a few of the most popular sights in Munich however, this Bavarian town is full of hidden treasures so be sure to get a local guide to take you around and explain its history and culture. Typically, when I visit any European city for the first time, I take the walking and private tours in order to learn about the town and to get my bearings for return visits.

Thank You for going along with me on my tour of enchanting Southern Bavaria.  With each road trip of Bavaria Germany, this amazing corner of the world became more special and more beautiful to me as I am sure it will for you too.

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